Don’t Buy The $20 Burrito Bomb; Make Real Food At Home

Every few years, America picks a food to symbolize what’s wrong with the economy. Today, it’s the burrito. As a chef and restaurant owner, I can tell you something most people don’t realize — nobody in this business wants to sell a $20 burrito. We’d much rather sell you a great $10 burrito and see you twice a week; that’s how we make money (in the hope you buy a soda, too).

The problem is that the burrito has become a victim of inflationary monetary policy. Take one bite, and you’re eating the consequences of years of easy money in addition to higher wages, skyrocketing insurance premiums, expensive rent, credit card processing fees, taxes, and regulations (and hopefully not tainted lettuce).

Then there’s another reality no one likes to talk about — we’ve become conditioned to pay a premium for convenience. Many Americans stopped cooking decades ago. Then we stopped picking up takeout. Now we expect someone else to leave their house, wait in line, drive across town, and deliver dinner to our couch. By the time you add delivery fees, service charges, small-order fees, communist taxes, inflated menu prices, and a tip, that $12 burrito becomes a $22 burrito-bomb. Then the restaurant becomes the villain.

The irony is that the local taqueria isn’t getting rich. The independent restaurant owner is working longer hours for thinner margins than ever before. The customer pays more, the delivery app takes a cut — and if the customer complains for any reason, the restaurant pays the price. The owner typically loses money in this scenario.

That’s why the burrito has become America’s inflation index. It’s one of the simplest, most basic meals ever invented — rice, beans, meat, salsa, and a tortilla. When that starts feeling like a luxury purchase, something else in the system is leaking.

There is a silver lining: burritos are still one of the best values in cooking. Buy a chuck roast or pork shoulder instead of expensive steak. Slow-cook it once, and you’ll have enough filling for a dozen burritos — heck, just slow roast some chicken leg meat on a lazy Sunday, and you’re set for a few dollars per pound. Stretch the meat with seasoned pinto beans instead of trying to make meat the whole meal. You’ll save money and probably make a better burrito.

Always skip the pre-shredded cheese. Buy a block of Monterey Jack or mild cheddar and grate it yourself; not only does it lack the powdered cellulose you’ll find in pre-grated cheese, but it also melts better, tastes better, and costs less.

Making your own salsa is a must. It can take 60 seconds in a blender. Just add tomatoes, onion, cilantro, jalapeño, lime, and salt; it costs pennies per serving and beats almost anything from a jar.

Cook a big batch of rice once a week — rice is still one of the cheapest, most versatile ingredients in the grocery store. Mix in some butter, cilantro, and lime zest and juice, and portion it in baggies and freeze for use throughout the week.

Never overlook rotisserie chicken on sale (the cold one is usually cheaper). Pull the meat, crisp it in a skillet with smoked paprika, a dash of honey, and a pat of butter, and you’ve got restaurant-quality burritos for a fraction of the cost.

This is what cooks have always done: we stretch ingredients, reduce waste, and turn inexpensive cuts into memorable meals.

The answer isn’t to shame people for complaining about an $18 burrito, nor is it to accuse restaurants of greed. Instead, remember that great food always rewards a modicum of effort. Cook when you can and support your local restaurants. If you’re ordering takeout, consider driving five minutes to pick it up yourself. You’ll save money, the restaurant keeps more of the sale, and your burrito will probably be hotter when you get home.

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Andrew Gruel is a chef, restaurateur, and Huntington Beach City Councilmember.